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Alpha Hydroxy Acids Help Treat Skin Aging

How Do AHAs Help Even Out the Skin Tone?

Sep 25, 2009 Hanish Babu

Alpha hydroxy acids, present in fruit extracts, are common ingredients in moisturizing and peeling creams and help prevent and treat skin aging.

Alpha hydroxy acids as fruit juice extracts have been used as home remedies for skin blemishes since time immemorial. It is said that Cleopatra used to use the debris from the bottom of wine barrels to massage her face. The chemical basis and mechanism of action of the AHAs were only revealed within the last two decades or so. The alpha hydroxyl acids help even out the skin tone in photo-damaged skin.

What are the Common AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)?

AHAs can broadly be classified into natural and synthetic. Though there are many natural sources of alpha hydroxy acids, majority of cosmetics available in the market contain synthetically produced AHAs.

Following are the natural sources of commonly available alpha hydroxy acids:

Glycolic acid: Sugarcane.
Lactic acid: Fermented milk
Citric Acid: Citrus fruits like lemon
Malic acid: Unripened apples
Mandelic acid: Bitter almonds
Tartaric acid: Fermented grapes (a la Cleopatra)

How Do AHAs Help Even Out the Skin Tone?

The alpha hydroxyl acids act on the skin in a number of ways to produce their effects.

At low concentrations, AHAs produce superficial peeling of the skin by interfering with the intercellular binding of the superficial layers of the skin.
At higher concentrations, they cause deep peeling by detaching the keratinocytes, known as epidermolysis.
By inhibiting the enzymes responsible for melanin synthesis, AHAs reduce the production of melanin, resulting in lightening of dark skins. AHAs also cause increased dispersion of the melanin pigment throughout the epidermal cells.
Alpha hydroxyl acids stimulate the fibroblasts in the dermis to increase the production of collagen, elastic tissue and the ground substance in the dermis.
It has also been proposed that the alpha hydroxyl acids have some antioxidant properties in reducing the redness and inflammation induced by ultraviolet radiation.

The overall effect of these actions is to even out the skin tone by reducing the wrinkles, removing the dry, flaky, dead superficial skin layers and improving the color, firmness and elasticity of the skin and providing a more youthful facial complexion to the user.

What are the Uses of Alpha Hydroxy Acids?

AHAs like glycolic acid are used in lower concentrations in OTC products like moisturizers, cleansers and toners. Many anti-ageing and photo rejuvenation products contain various concentrations of AHAs. Higher concentrations are used by dermatologists for chemical peels. The most common concentrations of glycolic acid used for the graded peeling are 30%, 40%, 50% and 70%.

For photo damaged skin with wrinkles and solar elastosis, morning application of glycolic acid is combined with night application of topical tretinoin. Other AHAs like lactic acid, citric acid and mandelic acid are also used in moisturizing and peeling cosmetic creams. Regular application of AHAs, coupled with sun protection measures, helps in avoiding the premature aging of the skin.

Lactic acid is used along with salicylic acid in many OTC products for its keratolytic effects in skin diseases with thickened skin and diseases like plantar warts and corns.

What are the Side Effects of Alpha Hydroxy Acids?

Though comparatively safe to use even for prolonged periods, the AHA preparations can cause irritant and allergic reactions on the skin. Most often these are caused by the vehicles and other additives used in the cosmetics along with the AHAs. Sensitization to sun rays is rarely seen with some AHAs like citric acid.

What are the Precautions to be Taken While Using AHAs?

Concentrations higher than 20% are best avoided for OTC use, unless as peeling masks which are applied for a few minutes and then peeled off.
The AHAs should not be diluted because any change in the acidic pH will result in loss or reduction of efficacy of the skin care products.
As alpha hydroxy acids may increase the sensitivity of the skin to sun rays resulting in sun burns and phototoxic reactions, avoidance of sun exposure, use of protective clothing and sunscreens are essential while using the AHAs as anti skin aging cosmetics.

Alpha hydroxy acids, thus, are very useful in preventing and removing the skin blemishes caused by sun exposure and premature skin aging.

Can Aging of Skin be Avoided or Prolonged?

Reference

Radha AS. Cosmeceuticals.Textbook and Atlas of Dermatosurgery and Cosmetology. Ascad Publishers, Mumbai, India.

Disclaimer

The information given in this article is for educational purpose only so that patients are aware of the options available. No diagnosis should be made or treatment undertaken without first consulting your doctor. If you do so, the author or suite101 will not be responsible for any consequences. The images provided are for illustration purpose only.

The copyright of the article Alpha Hydroxy Acids Help Treat Skin Aging in General Medicine is owned by Hanish Babu. Permission to republish Alpha Hydroxy Acids Help Treat Skin Aging in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids Help Treat Skin Aging